Over the past 10 years, the area lining the Canal saint Martin, just behind Place de la République in the 10th arondissement has become one of the hippest neighbourhoods in Paris. Gone are the dirty workshops and dusty warehouses that once lined the banks of the canal, replaced by trendy boutiques, art galleries, organic supermarkets and of course myriad bars and restaurants.
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Stepping into Chez Nenesse is like stepping back in time, to experience a real Parisian Bistro like they used to be, before they gained the reputation of being unfriendly hurried places where the food is thrown at you and the waiters scowl in your direction every time they pass your table. No, you won’t find that kind of behaviour Chez Nenesse, but the warm welcome of M. et Mme Leplu. Madame Leplu watches over the customers while Roger is confined to the kitchen.
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As any well travelled vegetarian will tell you, eating well in Paris can be difficult. I remember eating out with a vegetarian friend of mine, and when she enquired as to the meat-free options, the waiter promptly suggested the chicken salad. Things have improved recently, but the situation in the French capital is still years behind many other European cities. Whilst virtually every restaurant in the UK will have several veggie options, you will frequently struggle to find a single vegetarian option in Parisian restaurants. There are a number of vegetarian restaurants in Paris, but the choice is still rather limited. It’s even more difficult for vegans,often the only option is pasta or a salad.
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Hidden up a dark side street, you’re not likely to find “Chez Ramona” by accident, which is a shame as you’d be missing out on some authentic spanish cuisine. Even on passing in front of the door, you might miss it, as the ground floor is an “epicerie espagnole”. To get to the restaurant, you have to traverse the ground floor shop and climb the tiny staircase next to the kitchen. Once upstairs, you’ll be greeted by a simply decorated room, with space for around 30 diners, judging my the popularity of the place, the room will probably already be full.
The menu is what you would expect from a traditional spanish restaurant – entradas de chorizo, jamon, tortillas, queso, calamares, anxoves… For the main course, choose between squid, grilled fish of the day, or the paëlla, which is what most people come for. If thats what you fancy, you should reserve your paëlla beforehand by telephone, or be prepared for a long wait.
Chez Ramona
17, rue Ramponneau
75020 Paris
Tél : 01.46.36.83.55
Open tuesday – sunday evenings
Metros : Belleville, Couronnes
More information: Chez Ramona on Eat-Out.net, on dj716